It is important to draught strip windows with rubber strips or DIY brushes. If there is a sash window, a specialist must be consulted to fit recessed weather stripping. Also, it is strict no-no to draught strip windows in rooms which have boiler or gas fire. Also, never make the mistake of blocking the ventilators. Blocking them will not help in maintaining the fresh supply of air.

Here is a list of some important precautions which need to be taken before going ahead with draught proofing.  In order to fill the internal and external gaps around the window frames, it is advisable to use acrylic sealant or decorator’s caulk. But precaution should be taken that the sealant is kept smooth and neat so that rainwater is not trapped by it.

Next, all the window frames should be repaired of any kind of damages. Also, the functioning of the windows should be checked so that there is proper ventilation in the room. Any windows that are painted shut should be released. Also sash cords for sliding sash windows should be immediately replaced. When doing draught proofing of windows on the upper storey, do it yourself if and only if there is presence of hinges which aid in easy and safe removal of the window sashes with absolutely no risk of falling.

In case absence of air vents in a room, it is safe to ask a joiner to fit a trickle vent in the top or side of the window frame. But if sue to some reasons, the above suggestion is not feasible, what should be done is that the sides and the bottom of the opening parts of the window frame should be draught striped.

Also, it is very necessary to have an extract fan fitted in the kitchen and bath in order to get rid of all the moist air. Also, the fans should vent to the air outside via a wall, window, chimney, or roof. When in a kitchen, a multispeed extract over the hob is the best choice one can opt for. A bathroom fan with humidistat for auto switch-off is necessary for every bathroom.

After the draught stripping and the sealing are done with, it is advisable to consult the heating engineer to do flue gas spillage tests to check the safety of fires and boilers.

But unfortunately, along with the growing population, it is ironical to note that Draught Proofing is an area of insulation which is most often neglected. And it is most commonly during the winters that approximately 10% of a building’s heat is lost only because of inadequate insulation against cold draughts. And today, the world is moving towards a massive energy crisis. Energy is going to be rare. And this is reason enough to justify any small or large step taken towards its preservation or conservation. And in order to meet the requirements of energy conservation, a comprehensive insulation programme requires the draught proofing of all hatches, external doors and windows as well as the doors between the living and working areas and the kitchen or bathroom.

Today, even the governments of several countries are doing their bit in helping households get insulated. And it is a general statistic that there is a significant increase in the comfort levels when draught proofing is carried out.  And this comfort can be achieved at a very small price of replacing badly fitting windows or doors.

The key to effective draught proofing is appropriate matching of a product to its application. And the variety of draught insulating problems has led to the development of a vast range of products.

Wooden Window Seals

An uPVC carrier is fitted along with a silicone treated polypropylene brush pile on a wooden frame. A central uPVC fin is incorporated for condensation control and rigidity.

Metal Window Seals

In case of Metal Window Seals, a silicone adhesive incorporating a silicone ‘o’ tube in the rebate on the hinged side is attached with a ‘clip-on’ uPVC carrier. Alternatives to silicone include ‘o’ tube rebate seal system or a full gasket silicone seal.

External Door Seals

Door perimeter seals come with uPVC or aluminium carriers fitted with uPVC blades, Q-lon, or nylon brush.  Carriers can be of two types- fix screw and pin fixed.

Draught Proofing Features

• Carriers and brush strips available in various finishes
• All uPVC and PVC carriers dimensionally stable
• Insulates against draughts
• Increased comfort level
• Products specifically designed for all applications
• Totally weather proof
• Seals available for metal windows
• Age resistance ensures long life
• Installation by fully trained insulation specialists

It is known fact to all of us that hot air rises. As the molecules in the air gain kinetic energy due to heat, they spread away from each other and hence the air rises. So if we need conserve heat in our house, priority should be given to insulate the upstairs ceilings, roof or both.

The best way to save heating costs as well maintain the heat in the house is by draught proofing of the windows. Generally speaking, £20 worth of DIY self-adhesive rubber draught stripping is enough to meet the draught proofing demands of your house. These takes although not very strong are able to serve the purpose for a few weeks. And this is exactly what you need. No flashy or costly. Just a cheap and effective way to keep your house nice and warm. And repeating the taping once in two or three months is not a difficult task at all.

But many times, another option is available for us. And that is to remove the original timber windows and replace them with plastic ones. This is because it is supposed that plastic windows are tighter and have high productive life. Also, many say that the old timber windows responsible are ill fitting and hence draughty.

But going by the general opinion it can be said that it is always more preferable and economical to get the old timber windows overhauled and draught proofed rather than removing them. And those who say that plastic windows are maintenance free are completely wrong. Many users of plastic windows complained of scratched surfaces and thus want to paint them. Also, there is constant need for replacement of handles, hinges and catches with these plastic doors. And many a times, these door companies suddenly disappear from the face of the earth. In addition to this, many users suffer from premature misting between the two panes. So is this what you call maintenance-free?

So you want to go for draught proofing depends on the duration for which you wish to hold on to the existing property and the size of your windows. With the increasing energy prices and technological improvements, the option of double glazing seems to be a better one but study neatly and you will find that it is still the costlier option. Actually, even today, double glazing will cost you twice as that of draught proofing and it has a payback period of 12 to 15 years which is quite high. So on a personal note, prefer draught proofing and nice decorative windows.

It is important to draught strip windows with rubber strips or DIY brushes. If there is a sash window, a specialist must be consulted to fit recessed weather stripping. Also, it is strict no-no to draught strip windows in rooms which have boiler or gas fire. Also, never make the mistake of blocking the ventilators. Blocking them will not help in maintaining the fresh supply of air.

Here is a list of some important precautions which need to be taken before going ahead with draught proofing.  In order to fill the internal and external gaps around the window frames, it is advisable to use acrylic sealant or decorator’s caulk. But precaution should be taken that the sealant is kept smooth and neat so that rainwater is not trapped by it.

Next, all the window frames should be repaired of any kind of damages. Also, the functioning of the windows should be checked so that there is proper ventilation in the room. Any windows that are painted shut should be released. Also sash cords for sliding sash windows should be immediately replaced. When doing draught proofing of windows on the upper storey, do it yourself if and only if there is presence of hinges which aid in easy and safe removal of the window sashes with absolutely no risk of falling.

In case absence of air vents in a room, it is safe to ask a joiner to fit a trickle vent in the top or side of the window frame. But if sue to some reasons, the above suggestion is not feasible, what should be done is that the sides and the bottom of the opening parts of the window frame should be draught striped.

Also, it is very necessary to have an extract fan fitted in the kitchen and bath in order to get rid of all the moist air. Also, the fans should vent to the air outside via a wall, window, chimney, or roof. When in a kitchen, a multispeed extract over the hob is the best choice one can opt for. A bathroom fan with humidistat for auto switch-off is necessary for every bathroom.

After the draught stripping and the sealing are done with, it is advisable to consult the heating engineer to do flue gas spillage tests to check the safety of fires and boilers.

Precautions

1. All vents and bricks must be checked for any kind of blockage. Also, ensure that the boiler flues are clear.
2. Full draught proofing should not be installed in rooms containing gas fires, gas boilers and open fires.
3. Draught proofing should not be done on any of the windows of the house if there is usage of bottled gas or paraffin heaters.
4. It is advisable to install draught proofing only on the external envelope of the property i.e. all windows and doors, the letterbox and keyhole.
5. When internal doors come into picture, toilet or pantry doors where fixed vents are installed should be draught proofed.
6. Materials conforming to the British Standards 7386 should be purchased. Other materials should be strictly avoided.

Draught proofing windows

Instructions

For draught proofing of wooden windows, following instructions must be carefully followed.

For sash windows, start by fitting brushers or rubber wipers to the inside of the frame by starting at the bottom, then moving on to the sides, across the central bar and up the sides of the upper panel. Also, it is necessary to fit seals to the outside of the frame. But ensure that the windows can be properly closed and the window catches are secure.

Draught proofing doors

Draught proofing a door is a 3 stage process.

Stage 1: Fitting the draught strip

Cut a 45° angle at one end of the strip. If it is impossible to keep a pinhole within 25mm of each end, make a new hole.

Now measure the width within the top of the doorframe and cut the other end of the strip, also at a 45° angle.

Close the door, press the carried into the frame and slide it against the head of the door until the seal is half compressed. Nail the strip in place.

Repeat for the side strips, cutting 45° angles at the top and 90° angles at the bottom. Make sure that the gaps between the top and sides is wind tight and use a Stanley knife to trim any rough edges that might catch on the door.

Stage 2: Fitting the bottom seal

Cut a length of seal that is about 5mm less than the length of the door strip.

Position the carrier as close to the bottom as possible. Open the door to check that it doesn’t hit the frame. If it does, then trim it shorter.

Trim 1mm off the ends of the seal and close the ends of the carrier.

Close the door and put the carrier in place so the seal rests on the floor covering and fix in place.

If there is a weather board, only run the trim to this.

c. Letterbox and keyhole cover

Fit a letter box cover to the inside of the front door, making sure you can still pass letters through the gap.

Fit a keyhole cover on the outside of the door.